We're welcoming 2 new 18th-century costumes at Atelier Serraspina! During May 2021, I have been working on two new designs: MANON and CLAIRE. These two collections focus on 18th-century outfits composed of two pieces: a jacket with basques and a classical 18th-century petticoat. The difference between the two collections lies mainly in the length of the basques, the length of the sleeves, and the closing system.
18th-century two-piece ensembles: essential elements in a historical costume catalog
As soon as I launched my store in March 2020, I was convinced that I had to include two-piece sets in my 18th-century costume catalog. The idea was to reproduce something similar to the costume of the Belle Chocolatière, a 1744 painting by Jean-Etienne Liotard.
I like this fitted jacket with its Pierrot-like basques. Many costumes exhibited in museums show that this type of jacket was very fashionable in the 18th-century.
The very tight waistline and the flaring of the basques underline the thinness of the waist, and it is precisely what makes, with the square neckline, the femininity of this model. So I had to design the variables: sleeve length, length of the basques, and the closing system.
I had started by drawing a bodice and petticoat pattern, but it didn't quite fit. The flare of the basques was not enough with the waistline. As a result, the Pierrot effect didn't occur, and that's precisely the effect I was looking for! Besides, I was still hesitating between the variable parameters of the jacket. The solution was then obvious: I will make 2 different jackets!
MANON and CLAIRE 2 different types of 18th-century Caracos
These two variations of the 18th-century camisole have some common points:
- a very tight fit and converging seams in the back to emphasize the thinness of the waist
- a square neckline
- a pleated lace ribbon at the end of the sleeves
- basques all around the waistline
Even if they look similar at first glance, these two models of 18th-century caracos differ in some ways:
- the neckline is square and slightly closed compared to CLAIRE, plus it is trimmed with lace.
- the front closure is made edge to edge, through a tape of hooks and eyes, which remains invisible when the jacket is closed
- the sleeves reach the elbows
- the back seams stop at the waistline
- the basques are short and cut in a circle.
- the neckline is more open and without lace ribbon
- at the front opening, the right side overlaps the left by 2 inches
- the closing is made by 3 Brandenburgs, in metal or fabric according to the models
- the sleeves are long and reach the wrists
- the point of the back seams goes down far below the waistline
- the basques are long and cut in the grain of the fabric.
These differences between these two models of 18th-century caracos make these outfits two very different proposals! If CLAIRE is more like a traveling outfit, MANON will accompany you on all occasions! I plan to make these models in different types of fabrics: linen, of course, but also flowery pieces of cotton. To be continued!